Unleash Your Inner Wine Connoisseur: Discover the Best of Bordeaux and Beyond
Introduction
Bordeaux evokes images of the fairy tale châteaux of the left bank (or “rive gauche”), the picture-perfect medieval hamlet of St Emilion on the right, and, of course, the handsome city of Bordeaux itself—considered to be a mini version of Paris. This is the beauty of Bordeaux: You don’t have to look hard to find an idealized version of this venerable region. Yet the largest fine wine vineyard on earth does not solely exist for the benefit of visitors.
Over 110,000 hectares of vines are the economic – and cultural – lifeblood of the Aquitaine region. They produce an incredibly diverse range of styles, including white, rosé, dessert, and even sparkling wines. And while connoisseurs go weak at the knees (understandably) when Chateau Margaux or Cheval Blanc enter the conversation. Bordeaux produces an even greater volume of high-quality and affordable wine.
On one end of the spectrum, the world’s most prestigious bottles and other awful wines that shouldn’t be made at all are found. But there is a gigantic space in the middle for the delectable whites of Graves and the underrated red wines of Fronsac and its neighbors. Make no mistake: Bordeaux does not exclusively cater to auction houses and the oligarch set. But there is plenty of luxury and decadence to go around, too.
Saint Andrew's medieval Gothic Cathedral in Bordeaux
The history of Bordeaux winegrowing has been intrinsically intertwined with a series of political earthquakes. These events have molded the region for centuries. Commerce, not the church or peasant farmers as in Burgundy, has always held the reins of Bordeaux’s history. The Romans were the first to spot the potential of this expansive region, planting vines after their conquest of Gaul (France) in the last Century BC. Bordeaux’s first vineyards were planted in the vicinity of the city itself.
In addition, vineyards were established in Saint-Emilion, Loupiac (Entre-Deux-Mers), and the right bank of the Gironde estuary. However, the collapse of Rome’s hegemony over Western Europe in the 5th Century was disastrous for Bordeaux’s wine economy. This power vacuum led rival civilizations to clash over the region’s resources, leaving vineyards to decay.
Its resurgence occurred in the Middle Ages, following the marriage of Henry II of England to Eleanor of Aquitaine in 1152. Trade with England flourished in the aftermath of this political union. Consequently, the area under vine in Bordeaux increased exponentially, spreading to the southern reaches of Graves and Libourne. Indeed, the best-known region in this era was Graves and not the Medoc. The latter existed as marshland until the 17th Century.
Bordeaux’s oldest First Growth chateau is Haut-Brion. Founder Jean de Pontac planted vines in the 1500s, laying the foundations for the ‘chateau’ system and the rise of individual brands. A century later, Haut-Brion was the toast of Europe’s aristocracy, producing red and white (invariably sweet) wines of great renown.
Transformation of the Medoc and Rise of Elite Landowners
However, after Dutch engineers drained the Medoc’s swampy terrain, elite landowners began to sideline Graves. They invested in the untapped potential of the Medoc Peninsula, taking advantage of the newly liberated gravel terraces and altered water table. Suddenly, the land was suitable for human habitation and, more importantly, the cultivation of vines.
The wealthiest families, including the Rothschild banking dynasty, rushed to invest in Medoc real estate. Thanks to their proselytizing, the region quickly established a reputation for excellence in northern Europe. The wines of Chateau Lafite and Latour soon fetched record-breaking prices, while Graves (excluding Haut-Brion) faded into the background.
Bordeaux’s 19th Century Global Renown and the 1855 Classification
The 19th Century was a seminal moment for Bordeaux and its global renown. Today, Bordeaux has many ‘classified’ châteaux, largely referring to the famous 1855 classification. In 1855, Napoleon III held the Exposition Universelle de Paris. In Bordeaux, wine brokers developed a classification system for wines. The brokers based their selection on reputation, the grandeur of the château, and (with higher cost seen as a positive factor) price. This system ranked wines from 1st Growth (Premier Cru, the highest tier) down to Fifth Growth.
The few wines selected for First Growths were Lafite, Latour, Margaux, and Haut-Brion. Apart from reds, botrytis sweet wines in Sauternes and Barsac were also classified. Their system had an extra spot at the top for “Superior First Growth” (Premier Cru Supérieur), and the only wine estate to receive this honor was Château d’Yquem.
In addition, the wineries of Pessac-Leognan and Saint-Emilion established their own classification systems in the 20th Century. Pomerol, however, remains the only major Bordeaux appellation that has refrained from this approach.
Evolution in the 21st Century
The 21st Century has witnessed numerous changes in Bordeaux: unprecedented global investment, new players, climate shifts, and experimentation with grape varieties – including Touriga Nacional – that would have been unthinkable 30 years ago. Yet, at the heart of this complex region is an unrivaled ability to satisfy every preference, budget, and desire.
Bordeaux remains the motor of the fine wine world; it is by far its biggest producer of blue-chip labels, exciting consumers, and sommeliers. But a wealth of ‘everyday’ Bordeaux also stimulates the palate with its savory tannin, moderate alcohol, and wonderful freshness. Brilliant wines at affordable prices? That’s a side of Bordeaux that deserves greater air time.
Geography and terroir
Vineyards near Saint Emilion after the harvest
Bordeaux’s massive (1000 sq km) region encompasses over 55 distinct appellations and a range of soil types, terrains, and mesoclimates. The city is in southwest France, on the left bank of the Garonne River. There are two key winegrowing areas in Bordeaux, known for centuries as the ‘Left Bank’ and ‘Right Bank.’ The most famous Left Bank region is the Medoc Peninsula, sandwiched between the Atlantic and the Gironde estuary.
Left Bank and Medoc Peninsula
The Gironde flows in from the Atlantic at Pointe de Grave and extends south towards the city outskirts. On its Left Bank stretching southwards, you hit the Médoc appellation and then consecutively St Estèphe, Pauillac, St Julien, Listrac Médoc, and Mouilis en Medóc further inland, and Margaux.
Meanwhile, the Haut Médoc’s vineyards extend along half of the peninsula. Bordeaux winemakers primarily rely on three grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, the Left Bank’s star player, brings structure, tannins, fruit character, and aging potential to the blend. Cabernet Franc adds elegance and finesse, while smaller amounts of Merlot contribute roundness, soft fruit notes, and body.
Like a chef adding a pinch of spice to elevate a dish, tiny amounts of Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménère are sprinkled into the blend to coax out other flavors. The poor soils here make for great viticulture; the vines are a mix of gravel, pebbles, and sand. Vines propel their roots deep into the earth (as far as fifty feet down) to find water, which leads to low-yielding vines that make ultra-intense, delicious wines.
Near the village of Margaux, the Gironde forks into two rivers, the Garonne and the Dordogne rivers. The Garonne heads south, flowing through Bordeaux and the appellations of Pessac Leognan, Cadillac, Graves, Cérons, Barsac, Loupiac, St Croix du Mont, and Sauternes. The Dordogne heads east. En route, it flows through the wine appellations of Côtes de Bourg, Fronsac, Pomerol, St Emilion, and its “satellites,” and eventually on to the Dordogne region with its varied wine regions.
Between these two rivers lies the aptly named and very beautiful “Entre-Deux-Mers” white wine region: Sauvignon Blanc blends are the lifeblood of this appellation’s inexpensive but high-quality whites.
Right Bank: Merlot-Dominated Wines
However, Merlot is the mainstay of production in the Right Bank, yielding velvety and opulent reds that consumers love. Pomerol and St Emilion are the two most famous names, while there are some delightful surprises in Fronsac and Côtes de Castillon. Merlot’s historic dominance (as opposed to its supporting role in the Medoc) is due to the complex relationship between soils, grapes, climate, and vineyard exposure. The Right Bank has more clay and limestone soils and, as a rule, has more gentle hills than the Left Bank, which is quite flat.
While the Left Bank is home to countless grand chateaux (and rather unattractive scenery in between), the Right Bank is more about gorgeous scenery and more humble wineries. This is where you will encounter many famed “Garagistes” and “Garage wines,” such as Le Pin in Pomerol.
Geographical and Climatic Influences
Climatically, Bordeaux enjoys a maritime weather system with warm, humid summers and damp winters. In the 20th century, proximity to the Atlantic ruined many a vintage in Bordeaux; downpours during harvest led to berry rot, dilution, and astringent green tannins. 1992 and 1993 are classic examples of this phenomenon – very few chateaux made exemplary wines in those years. Twenty-five years ago, people widely accepted the wisdom that Bordeaux’s weather exhibited a high degree of capriciousness.
Additionally, the looming threat of a mildew attack was ever-present. The threat of spring frosts is another pernicious aspect of wine growing here. Producers lost a high volume of their crop in 2021 due to unseasonably cold weather. Meanwhile, the average growing season temperature is about 66°F, with rainfall hovering around 900 mm annually.
Impact of Global Warming on Bordeaux Wines
Yet global warming has exceeded expectations in Bordeaux: a succession of hot vintages produced super-ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, a dead ringer for Napa Valley. Will this trend continue, or was it a blip? It is impossible to answer those questions with total accuracy. However, owners and producers are adapting their viticultural practices to reflect what they believe is the ‘new normal.’
Château de Sales is located in the north-west of the Pomerol appellation.
Bordeaux is the world’s most heterogeneous vineyard. The majority of the region’s bottles are not in the luxury segment. They include refreshing rosés, sweet dessert wines, and dry white wines with a salty taste. Bordeaux boasts over 6,000 producers scattered across its diverse appellations, each crafting every imaginable style of wine.
The Tradition of Blending in Bordeaux
However, there is a unifying tradition in Bordeaux: the cult of blending. Red wines have long been a concoction of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc. The exact composition varies depending on the region, cepage (proportions of different varieties planted), winemaker preferences, and vintage.
As a general rule, Merlot plays a dominant role in the wines of the Right Bank – Cabernet Sauvignon is the kingmaker in the Medoc. It also plays a major part in the beguiling reds of Pessac-Leognan and Graves. But why blend at all, you may ask? This panacea largely evolved out of necessity: in Bordeaux’s marginal climate, it was not uncommon for one (or more) varieties to fail to ripen in wet vintages.
This was the case in 1992, ’93, ’97, 2007, and 2013. So planting different grapes provided the estate with an insurance policy against the vagaries of the season; Merlot’s ability to ripen earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon can be a godsend in difficult years.
Winemakers’ Perspectives on Blending
In addition, many winemakers advocate blending to increase the complexity of the wine. Indeed, this approach is becoming more fashionable in the New World as mono-varietal styles become passe among consumers and key influencers.
Chilean oenologist Francisco Baettig says:
“Blends have been picking up in the Chilean market for some time now. I think they give the opportunity to complement the strengths of different varieties and help achieve a more complex and balanced wine. Our icon wine Seña was born as a Bordeaux blend, under the idea of showing in a single wine the full potential of our terroir and Chile of making a world-class wine.”
San Francisco-based sommelier Joseph DiGrigoli agrees:
“Great Bordeaux highlights how varying amounts of Cabernet can demonstrate different characteristics in the finished wine over time,” said DiGrigoli. “Yet there is a place for mono-varietals Cabernet and a legion of drinkers who value and enjoy these wines. That said, I think you’ll find a decreasing number of drinkers who regard blending as somehow inferior, and that can only be a good thing.”
Bordeaux Blanc and Its Composition
This is a good moment to mention Bordeaux Blanc. Produced across the wider region, it is invariably a mixture of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon – the former brings freshness, fruit, and aromatics to the blend. Semillon, however, provides the crucial backbone: structure, richness, and texture. Occasionally, winemakers incorporate Muscadelle and Sauvignon Gris to enhance the aromatics, although some consider these varieties to be second-rate. This basic recipe is the lifeblood of Bordeaux sweet wines made in Sauternes and Cadillac. Meanwhile, sparkling Cremant can involve any number of varieties, including Carmenere, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Facts & Figures
K
Key wine styles
Elegant red wines
dry whites
dessert wines
rosé
Cremant de Bordeaux
A
Appellation structure
65 AOCs( Appellation d'Origine Controlee)
H
Hectares under vine
110,000 hectares
A
Average annual production
410 millionliters of wine
A
Approximate number of wineries
6000
The lowdown
Bordeaux has seduced generations of wine lovers, critics, and sommeliers. The vineyards of Graves, for example, have been producing wine since the late Middle Ages, yet the glamor has not faded. In London, New York, and Hong Kong auction houses, the finest châteaux sell for princely sums, only rivaled by the Grand Crus of Burgundy. Meanwhile, growing numbers of wine lovers are discovering the joys of Bordeaux Blanc: elegant, perfumed whites that run the gamut from saline to positively voluptuous.
At the same time, the appeal of mid-range Bordeaux (rouge) has risen as Millennials reject the idea of trophy hunting. Red Graves and Blaye/Bourg, with a few years of bottle age, can be superb and excellent value. Likewise, the reds of Fronsac, Lalande-de-Pomerol (especially Chateau La Fleur de Bouard), and the Saint-Emilion satellites should all be snapped up.
The Unique Charm of Bordeaux’s Aging Potential
Yet it is not easy to pinpoint what it is about Bordeaux that has such a firm hold on oenophiles worldwide. After all, exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon wines (both single-varietal and blends) are made in South America, California, Australia, and New Zealand. The best of this newer firmament garner high praise from critics – and even higher prices.
Perhaps it is the unrivaled ability of Bordeaux to age into subtle splendor: New World Cabernets can peak after five years due to the high alcohol. Minor châteaux from light vintages need only two or three years. But even modest wines of great years can improve for 15 years or so, and the greatest châteaux of these years can profit from double that time. Bottle age is useful for some regions: in the world of Cru Classe Bordeaux, it is indispensable.
Adaptation to Changing World and Sustainable Practices
The region has also successfully adapted to the demands of our changing world. This covers various interests, including viticulture, experimentation with new grape varieties (due to climate change), and tourism. According to the Bordeaux Wine Council, the region now boasts the highest number of certified producers of sustainable wine. With 70% of the vineyard area, it is managed under the rules of the HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) program. This drive to encourage sustainable viticulture, now widely adopted, was developed by the French Ministry of Agriculture in 2001.
There are three pillars:
A reduction in the use of synthetic chemicals
An increase in the level of biodiversity
A reduction in carbon footprint.
Sustainable Initiatives and Modernization
We obtained the ISO 14 001 certificate and the High Environmental Value (HVE) level 3 in 2017,” says Matthieu Bordes, Directeur Général, Chateau Lagrange. “In addition to encouraging biodiversity and eliminating artificial herbicides, 800 square meters of solar panels on a cellar roof now account for 15% of our electricity consumption.” Moreover, a growing number of estates have converted to organic and biodynamic methods, including Chateau Climens in Sauternes. And the progress continues apace as wineries embrace the 21st century with chic tasting rooms, multilingual staff, and on-site restaurants.
Bordeaux’s Balance of Tradition and Innovation
The truth is that modern Bordeaux has it all: tradition and innovation exist as equal partners in this venture. A great bottle of Bordeaux, regardless of its color, can refresh your palate; it possesses balance, harmony, and poise and is utterly delicious. The region occasionally disappoints with a rain-soaked vintage or disconcerting level of bottle variation. But its siren song remains uniquely irresistible, all the same.
Bordeaux Main Wine Appellations
Left Bank6 regions
Left Bank
Confusingly, the entire region on the left bank from St Estèphe to Margaux, with the appellations of Haut- Médoc and Médoc included, is all considered to be the “Médoc” geographically. The grapes used here primarily are Cabernet Sauvignon (the flagship left bank grape, which is responsible for the structure, tannins, fruit, and aging potential of the wines), Cabernet Franc (which gives elegance and finesse to the blends), and smaller quantities of Merlot (bringing roundness, soft fruits, and body).
Then, minute quantities of Petit Verdot, Malbec, and Carménère are thrown into wine blends like a chef would use a spice to bring out other flavors. The poor soils here make for great viticulture; the vines have a mix of gravel, pebbles, and sand. Vines propel their roots deep into the earth (as far as fifty feet down) to find water, which leads to low-yielding vines that make ultra-intense, delicious wines.
On the right bank, Pomerol and St Emilion are the most famous superstars, while there are some delightful surprises in Fronsac and Côtes de Castillon. The grapes used here are the same as the left bank, but generally, Merlot is the dominant grape, and Cabernet Sauvignon is the secondary blender, if at all. This concerns the terroir here- the relationship between soils, grapes, climate, and vineyard exposure.
The right bank has more clay and limestone soils and, as a rule, has more gentle hills than the left bank, which is relatively flat. While the left bank is home to countless grand Chateaux (and rather unattractive scenery in between), the right bank is more about gorgeous scenery and more humble wineries. This is where you will encounter many famed “Garagistes,” “Garage wines,” such as Le Pin in Pomerol.
Categories of Classification
The wine classification system in St Emilion is different than Médoc, too, and extremely convoluted. The first official classification was made in 1955 and updated in ’69, ’86, ’96, and finally, in 2006. The results of 2006, with its unpopular demotions (blamed on the vested interests of the brokers), were later revoked. So, to confuse you, the results of the ’96 classification were ordered by a court to be put back in place for vintages after 2006. However, a later court ruling in 2009 stated that the wineries that had been promoted could keep their 2006 status. Fun, fun!
At any rate, the classification system of St Emilion is comprised of 3 categories: the best being Premiers Grand Crus classés A (of which there are only ever two estates- Cheval Blanc and Ausone), then Premiers Grand Crus classés B (11 estates in the 2006 classification), finally Grands crus classés. Pomerol has no official classification system, and some of its best wines fetch higher prices than the 1st growth of Bordeaux, proving that great wines will be appreciated regardless of their arbitrary classification.
Carménère is a red wine grape from Bordeaux, France, once used for blending but is now mostly grown in Chile. Named for its crimson leaves in autumn, it's...
Our favorite restaurants in Bordeaux and wine country
Le 1925
$$$Barato
Le 1925 is a cool, casual, newish brasserie attracting stylish, well-heeled locals and artsy types. The space is gorgeous, with blue velvet vintage chairs, art deco lighting, and an Agatha Christie air. The staff are attentive, friendly, English speaking and professional. And the food is fresh, confident and delicious.
This romantic, brick and cozy timber-floored Michelin-starred eatery is a must for wine lovers. Run by the young, accomplished chef Tanguy Laviale and a former diplomat wine expert, Garopapilles offers a fantastic boutique wine shop along with the restaurant.
Michelin-starred chef (formerly of Plaisance in St Emilion) is at the helm at this unique and very special chef’s table. The 7-course tasting menu is based on seasonal ingredients, creative, and a culinary roller coaster of new taste sensations.
Bright and airy Michelin-starred restaurant with atmospheric garden tables, perfect for lunch. Chef Thomas Morel offers colorful, creative cuisine with edible flowers and vegetables are featured heavily.
Fun and hip neo-bistro in the trendy St.-Pierre quarter, run by two couples from Israel, Japan, New Caledonia, and France. Their tasting menus change frequently and are inventive with ingredients from worldwide.
It’s one of the hottest tables in Bordeaux at the moment! Located steps away from beautiful Saint Andrew’s Cathedral, this pretty, gastronomic restaurant offers market-fresh cuisine served in a lively atmosphere. Always a winner.
Le Pavillon des Boulevards, Michelin Starred Dining
The magnificent city of Bordeaux is bespeckled with excellent restaurants of all descriptions: Michelin-starred temples of fine dining, elegant bistros, relaxed brasseries, and the ubiquitous terrace cafe. Chefs work with an enticing array of fresh seasonal ingredients. These include oysters and langoustines from nearby Arachon, Blaye white asparagus, foie gras, Aquitaine caviar, and the rare (but sublime) Bordeaux saffron. It’s enough to make you forget about the wine, if only for a second.
A Guide to Bordeaux Gastronomy and Cusine: Read more
The newest luxury 5-star hotel in Bordeaux, this boutique hotel in a 19th-century townhouse offers 22 stylish, colonial decor rooms and an outdoor pool. There is a trendy cocktail bar and gastronomic restaurant onsite.
The best location in town, right across from the Opera House and steps away from great shopping and dining. Onsite, you can enjoy the small but great Spa Guerlain, their 2 Michelin starred restaurant “Le Pressoir d’Argent Gordon Ramsay,” and less formal dining at the pretty “Le Bordeaux.”
Art and contemporary design lovers will be at home at the Yndo. Their 12 rooms and suites are all unique, and most feature king-sized beds and quirky decorations. Highlights of this hotel include its breakfast courtyard, outdoor spaces, and scented garden.
Travel back to an Agatha Christie movie here, with art deco decor, palm trees, and comfie leather loungers downstairs and then be surprised with the modern, trendy rooms (equipped with Nespresso machines, fluffy bathrobes, etc). The feather in their hat is the “secret garden” wine bar.
This fantastic 4-star 18th-century mansion has the perfect location on Allées de Tourny and Rue de Sèze, half a block from the Grand Hotel and the Opera House. Rooms are old-world with antiques and period paintings. They have a great little spa, which you book privately, with a private Steam room, Jacuzzi, sauna, and Sensory Shower Experience.
With a passion for food & drink that verges on the obsessive, wine writer James Lawrence has traveled the world in search of the perfect tipple. To date, nothing has surpassed the 1952 R. Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Rioja Reserva, tasted in the cobweb-filled cellars with owner María José. Meanwhile, James has been writing for a wide variety of publications for over 12 years, including Telegraph, Decanter, Harpers, The Drinks Business, and Wine Business International. He lives in South Wales and returns to his former university city, Bilbao, as much as possible.
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