Coteaux Varois Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

There is a distinct lack of oligopoly in Côteaux Varois: the region hosts many small, family-owned wineries and some respected cooperatives. So, the output quality across the zone is remarkably high, with few poor producers and wines. As a result, it has become a fertile hunting ground for buyers – and consumers! – who wish to leap beyond rosé and explore Provence’s other strengths.

Rosé Dominance and the Expansion into Reds and Whites

Nevertheless, rosé is a mainstay of production – approximately 85% – but many fine Provencal reds and whites join it. Successive waves of invaders from all corners of Europe have ruled Côteaux Varois, which now boasts a fine palate of grape varieties, including some, like Tibouren and Calitor, unheard of elsewhere. Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in this terroir, as does Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Cinsault. Yet growers are increasingly distancing themselves from the Carignan grape planted in Provence to supply cheap, light reds for early drinking. The rosés are among the best in Provence – lightly colored and intriguingly scented; the classic formula is to blend three to five varieties to the exact specifications of each winemaker. The whites, although small in number, are also worthy of excitement. Flabby, unbalanced examples are being replaced with racy wines containing any number of grapes, including Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Semillon, Vermentino, and Grenache Blanc.

Red Blends and Global Recognition

However, the powerful yet balanced red blends are now eliciting the most interest from sommeliers and wine buyers. Côteaux Varois, whose wines are currently in an exciting state of flux, is much more than (unbaptized) consumers give it credit. There is real finesse inherent to these wines, a potent combination of Provencal fruit and charm merged with the structure and refinement one would expect from a good Bordeaux. The region has proved critics incorrect, playing a steady hand in a competitive global wine market, producing serious, terroir-driven essences of southern France with class and distinction.

Geography and terroir

Côteaux Varois en Provence is a relatively new face in France’s great pantheon of appellations. It was introduced in 1993 as a high-tier complement to the Cotes de Provence designation, created in 1977. The vineyards are west of that zone’s demarcated boundaries, constituting a third of the Var administrative department. It is widely agreed that the terroir is first-rate – equal to the finest regions of the Languedoc and Roussillon.

Unique Terroir and Advantages for Vine Growth

There are two major advantages to growing vines here: Côteaux Varois offers water-retentive limestone soils, and the proximity of the Massif de Saint-Beaume (and Massif des Maures) provides adequate shelter. Calcareous terroir is abundant across the appellation, providing soils with good porosity and permeability and allowing vines to thrive in inclement and drier seasons. Indeed, the world-renowned clay-limestone terrain of Côteaux Varois produces structured wines with good color and depth of flavor, making it no exception.

Climatic Influences

But more important is the moderating influence of Saint-Beaume and des Maures mountain ranges. Provence is the Mediterranean dream personified: long, dry summers and mild winters. However, compared to regions closer to the coast, Côteaux Varois is a generally cooler enclave, enjoying a continental climate with hot summers, mild springs, and cold winters. Yet, there are further complexities; the Massif de la Ste-Baume’s maritime influence creates cooler growing conditions than one would expect during the summer. Higher altitude sites mean fresher wines, slower ripening, greater diurnal temperature variation, and more balanced, elegant vintages.

Harvesting Practices and Wine Quality

Visitors often find it surprising to learn that the harvest in some vineyards in the wooded hills north of Brignoles may not occur until late fall. This is generally unheard of in Provence; the harvest typically starts in September or late August. It is one of the reasons why Côteaux Varois can produce such appetizing dry whites: exotically perfumed and wonderfully fresh. In the sun-baked vineyards of southern France, that is no small achievement.

The lowdown

What’s the rarest thing in wine today? A magnum of 1945 Mouton Rothschild? A jeroboam of 1982 Krug? No, although most of us would go weak at the knees at the prospect of sipping a Bordeaux First Growth. The rarest thing in wine is affordable and high-quality Pinot Noir, a grape that is notoriously difficult to grow. Sure, if you have money to burn, the Cote d’Or delivers a plethora of superlative Pinot Noir wines at astronomical prices. Yet the search for exquisite Pinot Noir that doesn’t break the bank can often be fruitless. Even Burgundy is known to market expensive labels that disappoint. What is an oenophile to do?

A New Hope: The South of France

You could try the south of France. Yes, that’s right: investors are taming the rocky terrain of the Languedoc and Provence to fashion supple, elegant Pinots grown on calcareous soils. According to Burgundy winemaker Laurent Delaunay: “The future of high-quality and affordable Pinot Noir is in southern France – Burgundy is just so expensive that owners seeking to bring new brands of Pinot Noir to the market must look further afield.” He added: “When you find a great terroir for Pinot Noir in France outside of Burgundy, you have to really champion it.” Thus, the vineyards of Provence have attracted attention from investors across Europe over the past two decades, including Burgundy magnet Louis Latour. A stalwart of excellent Pinot Noir, the negociant decided to plant that famous grape on sites near the commune of Aups, located further north of the Côteaux Varois boundaries.

A Testament to Provence’s Potential

The location is breathtakingly beautiful: Domaine de Valmoissine is a former monastery nestled in the Verdon Hills, over 450 meters above sea level. Combining old vines, ancient soils, and world-class winemaking yields a wine of real depth and precision, renowned for its vibrant bouquet of crushed red fruits, plum, and garrigue. Yet the wine has an innate freshness that defies expectations – to coax such finesse and elegance out of Pinot Noir grown in Provence is a testament to how far this beautiful region has come.

The Rise of Provencal Pinot Noir

Provence has already successfully crafted superlative white and red wines of structure and weight, leading growers to want to conquer new shores by refining styles and emphasizing terroir. But the boom in good and very good Pinot Noir, a grape that thrives on delicacy and not power, is astounding.

Côteaux Varois en Provence gastronomy

The south of France is a paradise for foodies. It’s all yours for the taking: seasonal ingredients, fresh seafood, Carmague lamb, and a wealth of produce grown in the surrounding countryside. Every city and region boasts its specialties – Nice is renowned for socca (a thin layer of chickpea flour and olive oil batter fried on a large griddle), salade nicoise, ratatouille, and farcis (stuffed vegetables). Meanwhile, Toulon’s restaurants serve some of Provence’s best moules frites (mussels and chips) and tagliatelle aux ceps et foie gras (tagliatelle pasta with mushrooms and foie gras). Bon appetit.

Provence Gastronomy Guide: Read more