Côtes de Provence Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Constituting over 70% of the region’s total production, rosé is the lifeblood of Côtes de Provence. Yet it is not a homogeneous category: styles, blends, price points, and quality varies enormously. Examples produced from old bush vines, cultivated at tiny yields and then subject to slow fermentation and maturation in barrique, are a world away from the “sunshine in a bottle” cliché. Nevertheless, most producers favor a blend of three or four varieties, typically Grenache, Mourvedre, and Cinsault. The classic method for making rosé involves leaving crushed or broken red grapes in contact with the skins for a short period before removing the must and fermenting it at low temperatures, yielding a very fresh and aromatic style of rosé. The lightness of color is simply derived from a brief maceration – grape coloring pigments are found in the skins.

Modern Vinification Techniques for Trendy Rosé

However, specific wineries eschew this approach, preferring to vinify the juice from berries almost immediately after they have been pressed. This produces a pale and fruity rosé wine: perfumed and very delicate. Such expressions are the height of fashion today, so this method is becoming more popular.

The Rising Stars

Meanwhile, critics are raving about the quality of dry whites and voluptuous reds. The best examples are complex, structured wines that boast a unique scent and taste of garrigue. The red grapes planted include Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and the local Tibouren. A new generation of winemakers has proven that the terroir in Côtes de Provence can equal any vineyard in the Rhone. Seeking out the best sites and cultivating at low yields, vignerons are increasingly making excellent wines that, when tasted blind, convince buyers that they’re imbibing something exceptional – and expensive.

The Art of Blending

The best examples of winemaking in Côtes de Provence tend to be multi-grape concoctions rather than single-variety wines. The small volume of local whites also trades heavily on the value of blending, mixing, and matching Vermentino, Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon. Protective winemaking has been widely embraced in the appellation, with cool fermentations in stainless steel producing scores of fruit-driven, aromatically expressive wines. A good example is fresh and mouthwatering, with an attractive bouquet of apricot, lime, and garrigue.

Geography and terroir

Côtes de Provence is the largest appellation in southeastern France, with over 20,000 hectares under vine. It is also unusual as the boundaries are non-continuous. Growers marketing wines under the appellation are located north of Marseille, on Mediterranean islands, around St-Tropez, in the sub-alpine retreats north of Draguignan, and in a small enclave around the area of Villars well north of Nice. However, the central hub of Côtes de Provence is predominantly situated in the Var department, covering the eastern section of the Provence wine region. As a result, Côtes de Provence is perhaps France’s most heterogeneous viticultural zone.

Terroir Variability and Vineyard Characteristics

A mosaic of terroirs awaits the new investor, with microclimates, soil variations, and varying altitudes/aspects, all creating intriguing points of difference. Growers now recognize that the grape variety comes second to the unique characteristics of an individual vineyard plot or ‘climat.’ Local soils run the whole gamut, from sedimentary deposits of limestone to metamorphic soils – namely schist and quartz. Clay and sandstone dominate inland, while coastal areas typically have a higher concentration of metamorphic soils.

Climatic Conditions and Challenges

Climatically, the region enjoys one of Europe’s driest and sunniest weather patterns, responsible for attracting tourists year-round. Winters are mild, while summers have seen little rainfall in recent years – sometimes leading to hydric stress as vines shut down due to the intense heat and drought. The most significant viticultural hazard in the appellation is overripeness. Winemakers must remain vigilant to avoid high pH and jammy, flabby wines.

Altitude: The Secret to Balance and Elegance

But growers have a secret weapon: altitude. Indeed, growers produce some of the best wines in Côtes de Provence from grapes grown in vineyards facing north, with proximity to the Mediterranean and higher elevations helping to maintain freshness and balance. This is due to a phenomenon known as diurnal temperature variation – a significant temperature difference between day and night. In addition, strong mistral winds from the north can moderate heat and prevent rot, protecting vines that are not securely trained from damage. Exposed vineyards can pose problems, while, unlike in Burgundy, people often consider south-facing sites inferior terroirs due to the intense heat and lack of respite. This climate naturally provides fruit-forward, intense wines with little work; balance, elegance, and poise require a concerted effort in both the vineyard and the cellar.

The lowdown

Côtes de Provence has become the sommelier’s favorite choice for excellent quality at reasonable prices. Some wine snobs may consider the appellation a poor choice compared to the (justifiably) exalted wines of the Rhone Valley, but Provence has finally shaken off its lackluster image. Indeed, the region makes life easy for oenophiles: it has a national flavor. Although the range of grape varieties is quite large, many of the appellation’s best white and red wines are blends, involving Grenache, Carignan, Marsanne, and Vermentino – all staples of the Mediterranean. This is good news for consumers seeking rich, garrigue-infused wines with plenty of fruit; the only issue is overripeness in the hotter parts of the zone.

Climate Change

Côtes de Provence may be winning awards on a monthly basis, but it should not be complacent. As elsewhere, the specter of climate change has become a significant talking point in the appellation following a succession of blisteringly hot and dry vintages.

Proactive Environmental Efforts

Fortunately, producers in Cotes de Provence take global warming very seriously. Recent years have seen a concerted effort to reduce the environmental impact of wine growing; Provence now cultivates over 6600 hectares of organic vineyards, and approximately 10,000 hectares are certified as HVE (‘Haute Valeur Environnementale). The region’s oversight body, Vins de Provence, has stated that it hopes to achieve 100% environmental certification by 2030 – a laudable goal. There have also been experiments with heat-resistant varieties – including Calabrese and Greece’s Xinomavro – to see if these ‘interlopers’ can thrive on Provencal terrain. Much credit for this innovation should go to the Center du Rosé, the only research institute in the world that focuses exclusively on the production of rosé wines. The center has played a vital role in encouraging reluctant growers to abandon synthetic inputs sharing best practices and eco-friendly viticultural techniques.

Future of Côtes de Provence

This is why Côtes de Provence will thrive in the years ahead. Not only are boutique wineries producing terroir-driven wines of the highest caliber, but Provence is also safeguarding its future with a more sustainable paradigm that unites this diverse vineyard. In 2023, cheap and cheerful rosé is no longer the export banner. Cotes de Provence is striving for excellence and winning.

Côtes de Provence gastronomy

The Provencal cliches of garlic, olive oil, and sun-ripened tomatoes are widely available in this Mediterranean paradise. Yet we should remember that southern France has a considerable population of immigrants from North Africa – especially in Marseille. As a result, an exceptional variety of reasonably priced Moroccan, Tunisian, and Algerian cuisine is available both in cities and smaller towns throughout Provence. One of the most delicious and easy-to-find favorites is tajine: slow-cooked pieces of meat braised alongside preserved lemons, prunes, and couscous.

Gastronomy Guide to the Cusine of Provence: Read more