Saint Estephe Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

In the 20th century, tasting your way through the latest vintage in Saint-Estephe was often trial by ordeal. In poor years, you’d encounter the most astringent tannins imaginable, analogous to paint stripper and far less enjoyable. However, the proliferation of Cabernet on unsuitable clay soils was only part of the problem; in the past, harsh tannins were often a result of picking the grapes far too early. Thankfully, that practice has been largely abandoned as estates strive for greater levels of excellence and reliability in this splendid and beautiful part of the Medoc.

Modern Characteristics

Today, you’re much more likely to encounter a concentrated, structured, and chewy red that will improve in bottle for over a decade. And while Saint-Estephe lacks the finesse of Margaux and the complexity of a good Pauillac, average quality has soared over the past 20 years due to improvements in winemaking and viticulture. Many of the leading wines of Saint-Estephe, such as Chateau Le Boscq, maintain a high percentage of Merlot in the blend, encouraging softness and approachability. It is joined by smaller amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot in the vat, subject to a cold soak (pre-fermentation maceration) before vinification and malolactic fermentation.

Aging and Recent Warm Dry Years

The wines are then aged in 50% new barrique for about 15 months. The results in bottle represent the modern face of Saint-Estephe: well-made wines that showcase ripe fruit, good structure, and plenty of ‘stuffing’. They are seldom light and insubstantial, particularly in light of recent vintages; 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019, and 2020 were all incredibly warm, dry years.

Traditional Approach

Flip the coin to Chateau Montrose, and you’ll encounter a more traditional interpretation of Saint-Estephe’s terroir. At this estate, Cabernet Sauvignon typically accounts for at least 60 percent of the blend, vinified in stainless steel tanks and matured in new wood (about 55%) for up to 18 months. This is Saint-Estephe at its most robust and concentrated, aging into subtle splendor after at least 15-20 years in bottle. For some connoisseurs, this immortal longevity makes the appellation so appealing. But impatient oenophiles may look elsewhere.

Geography and terroir

Situated north of Pauillac, Saint-Estephe is an important part of the famous Medoc Peninsula. However, the terroir in this area is quite distinct from its neighboring regions; the Gironde deposited less gravel here, and certain sites within the appellation have a higher proportion of clay and sand. In the northern and western parts of the region, sandier soils tend to give lighter wines, while the cooler clay and limestone soils are more suited to Merlot. That variety is becoming more ubiquitous in Saint-Estephe as growers replace underperforming Cabernet vineyards with its earlier-ripening blending partner.

Exceptional Terroir and Privileged Estates

However, exceptional terroir exists within the appellation, but it is primarily located in discreet areas along the band of croupes or gravel mounds overlooking the estuary. One of the privileged estates is Cos d’Estournel – its terroir arguably rivals that of First Growth Lafite. Here, you’ll find gravel topsoils that give way to alios (sandstone), a free-draining soil that can ripen Cabernet Sauvignon in cooler years.

Hot Vintages

Nevertheless, heavier clay soils dominate overall, ideal in hot vintages like 2003. Even in the blistering heat of 2003, the vineyards at Saint-Estephe were relatively untroubled because of clay soil’s excellent water-retaining properties. Conversely, Saint-Estephe generally performs less well in wet or cool years than the other regions.

The lowdown

Saint-Estephe has emerged as a frontrunner for Bordeaux’s best-value wine since its humble beginnings. Its dynamism flows from ongoing investment, better winemaking, and changing weather patterns in the Medoc. But, most importantly of all, Saint-Estephe is fortunate to have a large number of ambitious ‘Cru Bourgeois’ estates, responsible for almost 60 percent of production. This democratic initiative from the Bordelais, first introduced in 1932, was revised (following an annulment) in 2020 and includes three tiers: Crus Bourgeois, Crus Bourgeois Superieurs, and Crus Bourgeois Exceptionnels. Two chateaux included in the ‘Exceptionnels’ category are from Saint-Estephe: Chateaux Lillian Ladouys and Le Crock. This is a testament to the new level of excellence seen in Saint-Estephe today, where certain Cru Bourgeois producers are outflanking their peers included in the 1855 classification.

Attractively Priced Labels

Yet many labels remain attractively priced; Saint-Estephe has traditionally lacked the prestige of its neighbor Pauillac, which is to the benefit of consumers looking for a bargain. That fact, combined with the stylistic diversity, makes Saint-Estephe an unmissable stop on your journey through the Medoc.

Impact of Global Warming

There is also the issue of global warming to consider. If recent vintages are any indication, winemakers need to adjust to a paradigm of hotter summers, with Cabernet Sauvignon achieving spectacular ripeness levels in the most favored sites and terroirs. As Jean-Guillaume Prats, former president and CEO at Chateau Lafite, eloquently said: “People used to harvest in raincoats – now they need t-shirts and sun hats. The last 15 years have seen global warming transform our viticulture.” But although some may welcome greater ripeness, the risk of hydric stress in appellations like Margaux (due to its thin soils) has increased exponentially.

Saint-Estephe’s Advantage

In this regard, however, Saint-Estephe now boasts a decisive advantage. The appellation’s predominance of clay soils (porous but not very permeable) and subsoils favors the region in hot vintages like 2018, 2019, and 2022. For example, in certain parts of Margaux and St-Julien, vines suffered greatly from hydric stress and sunburn, reducing the potential yield. Yet those in Saint-Estephe were relatively unaffected: vines remained healthy and productive because roots had access to vital moisture reserves. In the coming years, a re-evaluation of the unofficial hierarchy of Bordeaux appellations, prescribed by critics and buyers, should occur. In that scenario, Saint-Estephe may be elevated to the top ranks. It’s about time.

Saint-Estephe gastronomy

Historically, the Medoc Peninsula was a gastronomic desert in Bordeaux – most tourists returned to the city after a day’s wine tasting. But while visiting Saint-Estephe is an enjoyable – and easy – day trip from the downtown area, your options have increased dramatically in recent years. In addition to Cafe Lavinal in nearby Pauillac, the town’s quayside offers a number of good restaurants serving authentic, seasonal fayre. Feast on Entrecote à la Bordelaise (sirloin steak covered in a decadently rich red wine sauce), veal escalope with sage and ham, and foie gras.

A Guide to Bordeaux gastronomy: Read more