Rioja Alta Wine Region Guide

Winemaking and regional classifications

Rioja Alta has a long-established tradition of mixing grape varieties and terroirs. In the 20th century, it was standard practice to include a relatively high percentage of Mazuelo, Graciano, and Garnacha in the final blend, adding structure and perfume to the base variety Tempranillo. These wines are then classified into one of four categories, depending on the length of maturation in oak and the amount of time spent in bottle before being released for sale. At the bottom of the scale are the unoaked Joven or Sin Crianza wines released (relatively) soon after the harvest; Reservas and Gran Reservas must be aged in barrel for one and two years, respectively, before release. The best of this firmament offers a fresh bouquet, ripe acidity, and supple fruit entwined in oaky complexity.

Yet many bodegas, including La Rioja Alta and Lopez de Heredia, age their wines in old American oak for far longer than the regulations demand. This gives the wines that distinct flavor of vanilla and tobacco, not to mention an exquisite, velvety texture. Likewise, the small volume of long-aged white wines made in Rioja are beguilingly complex and profound.

Meanwhile, the revolution in winemaking and viticulture continues to gather momentum as the new generation rips up the rule book and increasingly focuses on single-site reds produced entirely out of Tempranillo; old vine 100% Garnacha wines are also in vogue, as is single-varietal Graciano. This approach to Rioja production often results in fruitier and spicier wines, albeit purists would argue that classical Rioja has the edge on complexity and structure. Nonetheless, it is undeniable that long periods of oak aging can subjugate the fruit. To counter this, iconoclastic winemakers use a combination of longer maceration of the grape skins during fermentation, vinification in stainless steel, and maturation in new barrique.

In addition, the grapes are often sourced from one vineyard, potentially labeled as a Vinedo Singular (not every producer has adopted the classification). Thus, Rioja now has an even wider armory of styles to compete in the increasingly competitive global marketplace. Indeed, there is so much stylistic variation that even the fussiest of critics are bound to find something they like in this majestic and venerable subregion.

A Guide to the Wine Types and Classifications in La Rioja: Read more

Geography and terroir

La Rioja Alta, one of the three Rioja subregions, lies entirely within the municipality of La Rioja. Beautiful and unspoiled, it extends south of the River Ebro from the Conchas de Haro in the west to just beyond Logrono in the east. There is also a small northern area around Abalos. Today there are over 27,000 hectares under vine, exploited by bodegas large and small to produce an eclectic mix of wine styles. Due to the region’s mesoclimate (a combination of Atlantic and Mediterranean influences) coupled with the mixture of calcareous clay, alluvial silt, and ferruginous clay, oenologists have subdivided the area from west to east into five key zones: Cuzcurrita, Haro, San Asensio, Cenicero, and Fuenmayor. In broad strokes, calcareous soils produce the most long-lived and potent Riojas, with good color and structure.

In contrast, ferruginous clay, found on sloping land throughout Rioja, is hard and has a reddish-brown color – it is renowned for producing lighter reds with medium body. Finally, Rioja Alta’s alluvial soils are a mixture of fine mud, silt, and sand deposited by rivers during the last ice age. The results are typically medium-bodied reds and whites, although excessive vigor in loamy soil can be problematic.

The lowdown

Historically, it was challenging to tie a bodega’s signature style to its vineyards. Until recently, most wineries blended grapes from across sites in two or even three subregions. Emulating the Champagne model, this philosophy’s rationale was to make a consistent product by harnessing the best elements of each climat (vineyard site) and variety. There is much to be said for this approach – not every wine lover fetishizes terroir expression.

Nevertheless, regional differences within Rioja Alta are now clearly discernible when tasting the new breed of single-vineyard wines. Today, the defining characteristics of a particular site are being celebrated rather than being ‘hidden’ in pan-regional blending. That is the wish of many younger winemakers, who have called for an even stronger tilt towards the Burgundy paradigm of terroir delineation. But the authorities are not ready to tackle this political minefield; other regions have gone down the hierarchical route and lived to regret it, not least because of producer infighting over official rankings.

In terms of the final wine style, much depends on the altitude of the vineyard and the soil structure. The high elevation climats of western Rioja Alta tend to yield medium-bodied wines, brimming with fresh acidity and moderate alcohol. However, the vineyards that flank Cenicero produce something quite different: richer, fuller wines that wear their alcohol on their sleeve. The abundance of calcareous soils is undoubtedly a major asset, imbuing the Tempranillo with a lively, firm structure. As a result, many of the longest-lived Rioja wines are made in the eastern half of the subzone.

Rioja Alta gastronomy

If you wander into a district called La Herradura (the horseshoe) on a Saturday evening, the extent of Haro’s gastronomic appeal becomes apparent. Every weekend, it is abuzz with the sound of happy revelers enjoying the many excellent restaurants and taverns, all serving mouth-watering tapas. In a large square called Plaza de la Paz, tables are flanked by stylish fin-de-siecle buildings, running into a rabbit warren of narrow side streets. Meanwhile, local chefs make full use of the abundance of fresh fruit and vegetables grown in Riojan market gardens. To that list, you can add plentiful Atlantic and freshwater seafood, not to mention succulent meat and game from the region’s farms. Then, seasoned liberally with Rioja Alta’s celebrated wines, you have the recipe for a perfect evening.

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